Source: http://www.starqualityair.com
Date: September 9, 2010
According to Energy Star, the average household spends about $2,000 annually on utility bills.  Almost half of this amount comes from heating and cooling your home.  Installing a programmable thermostat is an inexpensive and simple way to save money on your heating and cooling expense.  On average a properly installed programmable thermostat can save you $180 per year.

The key to a programmable thermostat is to maintain specific temperature settings according to your family’s schedule that allow for savings without sacrificing comfort.  A heating and cooling specialist can help you establish a program that automatically reduces heating and cooling in your home when you are not at home and do not need as much heating or cooling.  Example schedules include:

7 day – provides a schedule that is similar every day of the week

5+2 day – provides a setting for weekdays and another for weekends

5-1-1 day – one schedule for weekdays, and one for Saturdays and Sundays

These automatic settings not only help eliminate unneccessary heating and cooling, but are also very convenient.  Imagine your home’s temperature automatically adjusting to your liking before you go to bed at night and then again before you return home from school or work.  When you are away, the temperature will adjust to reduce the amount of heating or cooling to save energy.  A couple of things to remember:

1. Properly setting your thermostat is the key to energy savings – programmable thermostats have many complex settings and features, maximize its potential by allowing  a professional to set your thermostat properly.
2. Make sure your thermostat is installed properly by a professional to ensure accurate settings and saving potential – when installing a programmable thermostat, there are proper guidelines to consider for safety and proper operation.  It is best to contact an HVAC professional to install your thermostat.
3. Choose the right thermostat for you and your family – there are many types of programmable thermostats, talk to your Mechanics heating and cooling professional at 770-425-0000 for advice on which model is for you.

Source: http://www.starqualityair.com
Date: October 1, 2010

You want your home to be safe, secure, and comfortable. You want it to be warm in the winter, cool in the summer, and to not cost you a fortune in the process. But what if the very system that brings you this security is also a breeding ground for serious health issues?

Don’t pack up just yet. There could be a low cost, easy solution. “The more your ‘sealed’ home is for energy efficiency, the more germs, pollutants, and allergens it’s keeping in,” says Noah of Star Quality Air Conditioning. “In order to maintain humidity and temperature levels, the same air is continuously recycled throughout a home. This increases comfort, but it can also increase health risks. Breathing certain mold spores can cause illness – or even death – and they can develop inside the dark and damp environments of your duct system.”

In fact, indoor air can be up to 70 times more polluted than the air outside your home. So what can you do? Star Quality Air Conditioning recommends these measures for maintaining a healthy home:

• Have ventilation systems cleaned annually to help eliminate dirt and mold growth. A qualified technician should check to be sure that all return air is run through the filter system.
• Verify that the filter system meets size requirements for peak operation.
• Ask about purification devices that can eliminate condensed moisture from the air conditioning systems. Technology has yielded many inexpensive, easy solutions.

Noah told us “You don’t have to choose comfort or health. You can have both for your family. It’s simply a matter of taking minor precautions. ”These precautions are part of Star Quality Air Conditioning’s effort to educate the public. Star Quality Air Conditioning wants to show homeowners certain energy and health saving techniques that can save hundreds of dollars in needless expenditures each season.

You can get a free indoor energy survey and more tips on maintaining a healthy home by calling Mechanics Heating and Air Conditioning at 770-425-0000. “What better way to celebrate being a heating and cooling professional than to offer real benefits to our customers and community? That’s what being in service is all about,” says Noah.

Source: http://www.starqualityair.com
Date: October 13, 2010

The air filter in your home’s air conditioning system is extremely important but is often neglected.  In order to ensure proper filtration you need to think about 3 things: correct filter size, MERV ratings, and your individual needs.  For example, do you have pets? or allergies? Would you prefer disposables or a permanent filter? There are many types of air filters available but once you decided what fits your family the most, it’s really simple.

The first step is to make sure that you know the correct filter size for your system.  Using a filter that is too small or too big will not filter properly.  Air pressure inside the system presses the air filter against the frame of the filter slot which acts as a seal so that air will not leak around the edges.  All you have to do is make sure that the filter size fits into the slot and is large enough to touch all four sides of the frame.

You can usually find the nominal filter size printed on the filter itself.  It is important to remember that the nominal filter size is not the same as the actual filter size.  The nominal dimensions are usually slightly larger than the actual filter dimensions.

The next step is understand how filters are rated.  The MERV (Minimum Efficiency Rating Value) developed by ASHRAE (American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air-Conditioning Engineers) is an industry standard rating system that allows you to compare filters made by different manufacturers. The rating scale values range from 1 (lowest efficiency) to 20 (highest efficiency) and represents how well the air filter collects and holds particles of a specified size range.

Finally, when choosing the proper air filter for your home you must decide if you prefer a throwaway filter, a washable/reusable filter, or an electronic air cleaner.  Disposable air filters are generally inexpensive and need to be replaced every month to three months depending on the filter and the environment in the home.

Washable filters are a little more costly upfront but they can be reused for a number of years before replacing.  These filters are designed to be cleaned/washed every month to three months.

Electronic air filters are permanent fixtures in the heating and cooling system and require an electrical connection.  They are more expensive than any other type of air filter but are very effective at removing particles from the air. Electronic air cleaners polarize the air particles and collect them on a disposable low-static polarized media pad.  To ensure long-term effectiveness, you must be regularly clean the unit and replace the filter pads.

Source: http://www.homeimprovementhelper.com

Below are the main types of air conditioners available.

• Single-Package Central Air - Single package central air conditioners are most commonly used in industrial applications. All of the components are mounted into one “package” which is typically mounted on the roof of a building although occasionally on a wall.

• Split System / Central Air Conditioning (ducted A/C) – This is what people most commonly think of when they speak of wanting air conditioning. Split central air allows you to place the noisy portion or your cooling unit outside where it will be less noticeable. Split central air requires that your house have ducting to the various rooms in your home (usually the same ducting you use for your central heat). Central air allows you to cool all parts of a house evenly and quietly.

• Central Air Conditioning is the preferred type of air conditioning in almost all situations. If you are hoping for a quiet even distribution of cool air with the highest efficiecy ratings than a split system central air conditioner is the right option for you.

• Allows you to keep the noise associated with air conditioning outside. – Even newer room air conditioner units deliver noise along with cool air. Central air keeps the largest portion of the noise outside of the house so that your home’s interior remains quiet and peaceful.
• Cools the entire house evenly so you don’t notice temperature differences going from room to room. – Older homes that use window air conditioners typically have one or two rooms that are too cold while the rest of the house is too warm. Even cooling is a major benefit of central air.
• Adjust the temperature for the entire house at one location rather than several window mount air conditioners. – No need to run from room to room to adjust the temperature of the house anymore. Central air controls the temperature from a single thermastat.

• Central air is more efficient than window mount or room air conditioners. – Increased efficiency means a savings of dollars! Lower heating and cooling bills are something that just about everyone can appreciate.

• Requires that you have ducting installed in your home for the cool air to be distributed. – If you have ducting already installed for your furnace or a prior air conditioning system you will probably be able to use it as is. However, a cooling specialist should examine the system to let you know for sure. The ducting plays a significant role in cooling your home. If the ducting is not efficient your colling system may not work properly.

• Ductless Air Conditioning – For homes that do not have ducting already in place there have been real advancements in ductless air conditioning units. While you are not typically able to cool an entire home if you have a very open floor plan this allows you to once again keep the noisy parts of the process outside while you cool the area that surrounds the ductless A/C unit.
• Ductless air conditioning offers some of the advantages of a split central air system when there is no air ducting installed. Most commonly used to cool specific rooms or the majority of a home which has a very open floor pan. In a mini split system the condensing unit stays outside the house just like in a traditional split system. However rather than one single indoor unit that circulates the cooled air throughout the house through air ducts the mini split has one, or more, indoor units that connect to the condensor outside. The individual unit(s) are mounted on walls or in the ceiling and cool a specific area. In many instances 2-4 indoor units can cool the majority of the home’s interior while avoiding the extra expense of installing a duct system.

Single Zone Ductless/Mini-Split Air Conditioning System

• Usually involves a simpler installation than a traditional split system
• Reduced noise by not having the condensor unit inside the home.

• Systems can be purchased that use a single control for all inside units.
• Efficiency levels are not typically as high as the more common split central air system.

• Portable Air Conditioning- For those on a budget or if you just have a room that refuses to cool as well as the rest of the house a portable unit is an economical option. It will be noisier, allow some warm outside air into the house, and have a more limited cooling area but it will make a significant difference on the temperature of your room.
  
• Portable Air Conditioning Offers flexibility and affordability.While central air is usually the preferred cooling option there are times when that is simply not an option. If you find yourself in that situation there are a number of portable air conditioning options available. Each has pros and cons associated with them.

• Window Mount Air Conditioner- The most commonly used portable cooling option is the window mount air conditioner. Best used in apartments or when only a few rooms need to be cooled. Less efficient than split systems they have the bonus of allowing you to only cool a specific area when you choose too. Units are in-expensive, starting as low as $100.00, and can last for many years.
• Portable (Room) Air Conditioner Vented - Like window mount units a portable air conditioner is a self contained unit but offers greater flexibility since they can be rolled easily from one room to another when the need arises. To maximize the cooling a hose is connected to the unit to vent the hot air generated outside through a window. Prices usually run from as low as $200.00 and go up to several hundred depending on the model.
• Portable (Room) Air Conditioners Non-Vented- Similar to the vented portable air conditioners this type of portable air conditioner is not nearly as efficient as it vents the heat that has been taken from the air and blows it back into the room. Prices start at a few hundred dollars.

• Evaporation coolers – Also known as “swamp coolers” evaporation coolers pull air through damp pads cooling it as the air evaporates the water that becomes attached to it.
• Evaportative coolers are popular in dry desert climates and can be tremendously effective, cooling the air by as much as 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
• In simple terms the “swamp cooler” is a box that houses a large fan. The fan draws in air through vent grates which are located on three sides of the box. Between the vent grates and the fan a damp pad is placed. The pad remains damp throught the efforts of a small pump also housed within the box. As air is drawn past the moist pad molecules of water attach themselves to the air which is cooled as the water is evaporated. The cooled air is then forced into the house by the fan.
• Evaporative coolers are used primarily in the Sourthwestern portion of the U.S. due to the desert like climates. They are less expensive to run than traditional air conditioning and are simpler to maintain and work on. In a humid climate evaporative coolers are mostly in-effectual as the air does not evaporate enough for the the air to noticably cooled.

Regardless which type looks best for your home be sure to consult with a professional before you make a decision to buy. Call Mechanic’s Heating & Air Conditioning of Atlanta at 770-425-0000 Today!

Heating and air conditioning companies often offer maintenance servicing for both air conditioning units and furnaces.

“We recommend annual air conditioning check-ups in the spring and furnace check-ups every fall. Although regular checkups will not absolutely guarantee that a unit will continue to work perfectly throughout the season, they will reveal most small problems that can lead to major, far more expensive problems if left unattended.”

Homeowners can do the following things to maintain their air conditioning units:

1. The first thing to check before turning on your unit is to make sure the condensing unit located outside is not covered up. The unit needs to draw air into the system in order to have something to cool and circulate inside, but the process is hindered if it cannot pull in enough outside air. (We’re amazed how many homeowners call because their air conditioner isn’t cooling, only to find they forgot they had temporarily stacked lawn furniture, bags of leaves and lawn clippings, around their unit over the winter.)

2. Some people intentionally cover their condenser to protect it from the elements during the winter, although these units require no protection since they are designed for outdoor installation.

3. Run your air conditioner for a few minutes in late spring or early summer, before you need it. If you wait until the first hot day to discover it isn’t working, you’ll find yourself on a waiting list, sweltering for days before an air conditioning specialist can come to fix it.

4. Change the filters regularly. Dirty filters restrict air flow, reduce efficiency and worse case, can cause the evaporator to ice up. Disposable fiberglass filters should be replaced. Electrostatic or electronic filters need to be washed regularly.

5. Be sure all access panels are secure, with all the screws in place.

6. Clean obvious obstructions such as newspaper and leaves from around the exterior of the unit.

7. Be sure the thermostat is set in the cooling mode. Just setting the dial below room temperature will not activate the air conditioning if it is set in the heat mode.

8. A thoroughly cleaned air conditioning unit will operate at top efficiency. However, homeowners are strongly discouraged from using a hose and water to try to clean it themselves because of the very serious risk of electrical shock and possible shorting of electrical components.

1. Step 1

   Stay indoors as much as possible when the pollen count is high.

2. Step 2

   Plan outdoor activities during low pollen counts.

3. Step 3

   Keep your house sealed during this time. Use air conditioning.

4. Step 4

   Try air-filtering devices in your house. They not only help clean the air of pollen, but of other pollutants as well.

5. Step 5

   Try using over-the-counter antihistamines and/or nasal sprays. Use according to directions. Some antihistamines can make you drowsy, so use with care.

6. Step 6

   See an allergist if your symptoms are severe. There are many prescription medications on the market. Use according to directions.

7. Step 7

   Consider getting allergy shots if you are really miserable during pollen seasons. Allergy shots work by desensitizing you to the allergen.

8. Step 8

   Keep your pets indoors as much as possible – or keep them outdoors all the time – because pollen can stick to their fur.

9. Step 9

   Eat yogurt at least three times a week. Some studies show that eating yogurt daily can significantly reduce allergy attacks resulting from pollens.

10. Step 10

    Wash your hair after spending a lot of time outdoors. Pollen can stick to your hair. Change your clothes – or at least the top layer – after you come inside.

11. Step 11

    Add 1,000 to 5,000 mg vitamin C plus bioflavonoid complex daily in divided doses, along with 500mg quercetin twice daily. They help to minimize allergy symptoms and strengthen the immune system.

12. Step 12

    Take 100mg bromelain twice daily. It enhances quercetin absorption.

13. Step 13

    Add the herbs burdock, dandelion and echinacea to your diet. Take as a tincture or in capsules, or drink as a tea. They help relieve allergy symptoms.

14. Step 14

    Supplement with 100mg coenzyme Q10 daily. It helps the immune system, and research is under way to determine whether it helps relieve allergy and asthma symptoms.

15. Step 15

    Use stinging nettle and mullein leaf to help relieve allergic reactions. They are good for respiratory reactions. Take as capsules, tea or tincture.

16. Step 16

    Eat Honey from local wildflowers daily

17. Step 17

    Plan for an extra hour of sleep nightly to reduce pollen allergies.

With the advent of Spring and all the blooming flowers, the Pollen-related allergy season has hit Atlanta, GA again.  Check the article posted below for some helpful tips on significantly reducing your allergy symptoms while at home!

Author:  Linnea Lundgren and Jeff Wald, MD
Date: April 20, 2006
Source:  HowStuffWorks.com

Your home’s comfort systems (air conditioning and heating) can help or hinder your allergen-control efforts. This section will show you how to evaluate these systems and make them as efficient and hypoallergenic as possible.

Check Humidity

Ridding the house of excess moisture helps prevent the spread of mold and decreases the survival rate of dust mites and cockroaches. If you live in an area of high humidity, you might want to invest in a humidity gauge (available at most hardware stores). Humidity in your house should range around 40 percent. Humidity above 50 percent is considered a resort for the dust mites and molds, while a reading below 20 percent might be called the Sahara Desert. Be sure to check humidity readings throughout the house and not just in one room.

If humidity readings hover near the steam-bath level, you can lower moisture in the air with an air conditioner and dehumidifier.

Air-conditioning (AC)

If you’ve ever had the windows fog up while you’re driving, you know that the best way to remove the moisture is to turn on the air conditioning (AC). The same method applies to the house, but only in warm weather. (Who is going to blast cold air when it’s snowing outside?) Despite this weather-sensitive requirement, air conditioning does more than dehumidify the air; it filters out pollen and helps discourage cockroaches, which dislike the airflow. Dust mites and mold, too, hate the cool, dry air.

To maintain the benefits of AC, your unit needs cleaning and regular maintenance. Whether you’ve got central AC or window or wall-mounted units, the filters must be cleaned frequently both for efficiency and to prevent mold growth. Some models can be equipped with electrostatic filters, which rely on static charges created when air passes through the filters, to help capture certain allergens.

Electrostatic filters must be cleaned regularly to maintain their efficiency. If electrostatic filters are unavailable, use regular, or pleated, air-conditioning filters, which work just as well as electrostatic filters in removing 95 percent of all allergens.

To eliminate mold growth in air conditioning ducts, try running the unit for 30 minutes after turning off the cooling to help dry out ducts. Lastly, if you have a recycle switch on your AC, be sure to use it because it recirculates air inside the house. Pollen-allergy sufferers work against their own interest if they continually allow outside air to be pulled inside.

Dehumidifiers

These devices work by cooling the air so that excess humidity condenses into a bucket, which can be emptied. Oftentimes, the heat generated by a dehumidifier can be too much in the summer and is used in conjunction with the air conditioning.

Like its cooler cousin, the air conditioner, dehumidifiers must be cleaned regularly or else mold spores will happily take over.

Enclosed spaces, such as closets, can trap moisture. Dehumidifiers work well here, but for even smaller spaces, such as an armoire or a cabinet, try using a desiccant. These moisture-wicking agents come in several forms, including absorbing flakes and cartridges. Some cartridges can be recycled by drying them in a warm oven. Desiccants also make ideal moisture wickers for camera bags, shoe storage boxes, and other areas where molds and moisture hide. Just be sure to keep the packages or cartridges away from children and pets.

The Heating System

Billowing dust isn’t something you want in your home, yet it’s what happens with forced-air heating, one of the least expensive forms of heating. If your house came with such a system, be sure to clean the filters at least twice a month and cover vents in each room with a fine mesh screen to keep dust particles down. However, don’t bother to have your ducts cleaned. There have been five studies examining the effects of duct cleaning, and none have shown any benefit at all.

Radiant heating (in which heated water is passed through piping underneath the floor) and baseboard heating don’t disturb dust particles as they heat. Radiators, especially those found in older homes, must be cleaned regularly as dust collects behind and underneath them.

If you heat the old-fashioned way, via a woodburning fireplace or coal stove, consider replacing them, as they produce smoke, carbon dioxide, and many other irritating gases. While not as cozy, electric fires won’t produce such gases. Space heaters that burn natural gas, kerosene, or butane all emit harmful gases and should never be considered a heating option in an allergic person’s home or work environment.

Smoking, Asthma and Allergies Cigarette smoke is an irritant to asthmatics and allergy sufferers and a serious health risk to smokers and nonsmokers. Secondhand smoke has been linked to increased rates of asthma and allergies in children.

Filters

There has been much hoopla about the ability of air filters, particularly HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Arrestance) filters, to remove airborne allergens. And now HEPA’s efficacy has been documented in a collaborative study between the University of Colorado and National Jewish Medical and Research Center. The study, funded by the Environmental Protection Agency, found that the use of HEPA-filter vacuums and air purifiers in homes reduced the concentration of particles less than 10 microns by almost 50 percent.

If you choose to augment your cleaning process with air filters, be forewarned that they don’t come cheap, and like any other filter, they must be changed regularly. People with allergies who don’t have a forced-air heating/cooling system can purchase freestanding units, which will help keep the bedroom free of airborne allergens, such as pollen and animal dander. Some models come equipped with charcoal filters that help eliminate cigarette odors. When choosing a portable HEPA air filter, note the noise level and the price (between $100 and $500), and be sure to buy a system that’s large enough to clean your room. Place the filter off the floor in the middle of a closed room and away from dusty areas since the unit’s fan sometimes churns up dust particles. Run it constantly or after vacuuming.

Allergy sufferers with forced-air heating/cooling systems may want to invest in a whole-house filter, which attaches to the furnace. There are several kinds of filters, which can be easily affixed to the furnace. Many can be washed and reused. HEPA filters may not be an option; consult a heating and air conditioning contractor.

It’s true that you should use air filters, but you can’t rely on them alone. Use them as part of an all-out campaign to reduce allergens. Relying only on an air filter to remove allergens is like asking dust mites to leave: It doesn’t work.

We’ve looked at a lot of different aspects when it comes to allergy-proofing your home. But what about your home away from home — your office?  Don’t worry. Allergy-proofing your workplace will be discussed in the next section.

Humidity and HumidifiersIn some parts of the country, cold winter weather combined with efficient heating systems can make indoor air dry enough to crack lips, irritate nasal membranes, and parch throats. In such conditions, an allergy sufferer often looks to a humidifier for vapor relief. Yet, ironically, while helping to ease dryness, a humidifier can also aggravate allergies, especially if they are allergic to dust mites and mold. The moisture emitted from humidifiers helps increase mold growth and fosters perfect dust-mite conditions. Additionally, a humidifier that’s not properly and regularly cleaned can hold a pool of bacteria and molds, which are vaporized into the air along with water droplets. Some humidifiers leave a fine white dust around the room, contributing to the dust layers you are trying to eliminate. Humidifiers are good for some people, but they must be cleaned often. Try alternative ways to moisturize lips, throat, and dry nasal membranes. For instance, try using a non-irritating moisturizing lotion on your skin twice a day (especially right after bathing) and applying petroleum jelly to your nose and inside your nostrils before going to bed. Also try using a saline nasal solution to moisturize the nose during the day, turning down the heat, and drinking lots of water.

How to Allergy-Proof Your Bedroom: Overview and General Tips

The average person spends about eight hours a night in their bedroom. Whether you sleep alone or with a significant other, you always have unwanted company in the form of dust mites, mold spores, and possibly animal dander. Microscopic mites, in particular, love lounging in your bed, your pillows, and your comforter, feasting away on dead skin flakes. You can’t help shedding your skin, but you can put the “No Vacancy” sign out for the mites.

How to Allergy-Proof Your Bedroom: General Tips

Here’s how to make your bedroom inhospitable to allergens:

• Using a damp rag, once a month wipe down the bed frame and other wood or metal parts that are covered with dust.

• Enclose the mattress and box spring in zippered allergen-impermeable, mite-proof covers, which can be purchased at some department stores or through mail-order companies that sell allergy-related products. Make sure the encasing permits perspiration-vapor-transmission: technical talk for “breathability.” A washable mattress pad can go atop the allergen-impermeable coverings for added comfort.
  

  Did You Know?House-dust mites want a warm bedroom, particularly one that’s about 70 degrees Fahrenheit with enough humidity (over 50 percent) to keep them well hydrated.

• Each week, wash all linens in hot water. Wash the mattress pad and blankets every two to four weeks in hot water. Wash the mite-proof encasings as recommended by the manufacturer or every three months.

• Encase pillows in allergen-impermeable covers. If you have synthetic pillows, wash them monthly in very hot water and chuck out any pillows of dubious age or origin.

• Avoid wool blankets and mold-attracting foam-rubber cushions, pillows, and mattresses.

• Encase comforters in allergen-impermeable material.

• Avoid cushioned headboards, billowing canopies, cute ruffles, flowing bed skirts (unless washed regularly with the linen), upholstered furniture, and accent pillows.

• If possible, remove all carpeting. If that’s impossible, low pile is preferable to shag carpeting. Have a non-allergic person vacuum twice weekly. Remove all boxes, old shoes, knickknacks, and junk hidden underneath the bed, all of which collect dust and make regular cleaning more of a chore.
  

  Did You Know?A bed can contain more than 10,000 mites and more than two million fecal particles (the unpleasant stuff that causes allergies). Dust mites are so small that 7,000 can fit on a dime.

• Blinds and heavy curtains help keep daylight out but dust mites in. Try installing window shades instead. If the curtain is not coming down, at least launder it in hot water once a month. The same is true for blinds: If you don’t replace them with shades, take them down and wash them.

• If the bathroom is attached to the bedroom, keep humidity down by closing the bathroom door when you take a shower. Just be sure to keep the bathroom’s exhaust fan running or the window open to allow moisture an easy escape outside.

• Dust mites don’t care if their dander dinner comes from a two-legged or four-legged restaurant. Reduce dander by keeping pets out of the bedroom. Always shut the bedroom door to prevent pets from making a sneaky entrance. Remember, your pet is a walking dust mop and can quickly undermine your best efforts at environmental control.

• Set a schedule for regular cleaning and washing of linens. Then stick to it! Real improvements may not be noticeable for several months because it takes several washings to get rid of the mite infestation. And if you slack off, a whole new crop will move in. Washing linens regularly not only kills dust mites, it also reduces their food source (i.e., dead skin flakes). Washing only kills the adult mites, however, not their larvae. That’s why it’s important to wash linens weekly — every week there’s a new crop of critters.

• Don’t eat in bed. Cockroaches are attracted to food and will join you in the bedroom if that’s where the feast is. If you have roaches, don’t bring food into the bedroom.

• Don’t place your bed over a heating vent because that just invites a dust gathering. Being inaccessible, the vent won’t be cleaned regularly. Dust will develop, and once the heat is turned on after a seasonal recess, a volcanic eruption of dust particles will fly into your mattress.

• Remove candles from the bedroom, especially the scented variety, which can release irritating or harmful substances.

• Keep bookcases away from the bed, or move them out of the bedroom.

Not all bedrooms are created equal, of course. In the next section, we will focus on how to allergy-proof two types of allergen-prone dwellings — a child’s room and a dorm room. Keeping your closet allergen-free is also covered.

Cooking and Freezing Mites Why the need to cook laundry in hot water? Because dust mites love warm temperatures, even warm baths. Warm washing temperatures don’t kill them; they just think it’s a pool party. Only hot, and we mean 130 degrees Fahrenheit/54 degrees Celsius, water does the job. If you have young children at home and want to keep the water heater at a lower setting, take your linens to a commercial laundromat. Call first, though, to make sure the laundromat keeps temperature settings above 130 degrees Fahrenheit.

If cooking your linens will ruin them, consider the opposite strategy: Put them in the freezer for 24 hours and then wash them in warm water. There are no guarantees about the scientific validity of this tactic, however. The deep freeze should kill the mites, but it won’t eliminate their droppings.

Each cooling season, we see a lot of folks in the Atlanta area improperly operating their air conditioners and wasting a lot of money.  Here are a few tips that should help you save some real coin on your air conditioner bills this summer.

Tip One – Change your air filter.  This tip is like telling someone the best way to stay cool is to stay in the shade and drinks lots of water; it’s a no-brainer.  We talk about filters all the time but most of the time when we visit clients, their filter is dirty.  You can go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a standard 3-pack of filters for $6.50.  Then change your filter every two months during the summer and you are covered.  Set a reminder on your calendar or smart phone.  It takes no time.  Not changing your air filter is like trying to breathe with a pillow covering your mouth.  Think about it.

Tip Two – Think carefully about setting your thermostat temperature.  Let’s say you come home from work (which is something to be thankful for) and your place is hot.  You left the thermostat on 88 and now you crank it down to 65 thinking this will get it real cool real fast.  It won’t.  Once you set the temperature lower than 88, your air conditioner will click on and start cooling at the same rate as if you set it to 85.  The air conditioner does not really understand thermostats.  It only understands two words:  go and stop.  It’s just that simple.  So, when you crank it down to 65, the air conditioner will run until the thermostat senses the temperature in the house is 64.  It will then tell the air conditioner “stop.”  The problem is:  you forgot to turn it back up to 73 because you got busy microwaving that fast food, watching American Idol and checking the mail.  So, you paid to cool the place to 64 when you could have been happy with 73.  Why not simply set it to 77 and let it turn off at 76 and then check your mood at that time.  Plus, if you turn on some ceiling fans or box fans, 76 can feel like 70.  Which leads me to my final tip:  Fans.

Tip Three – Turn on Fans.  You know should do this but most of the time you don’t.  Let me explain it this way………when the winter is here and the temperature is 37 degrees outside, sure it’s cold but certainly bearable.  Now mix in a 15 mph wind and you can’t stand it and if fact, you could suffer real health problems.  The same works for fans blowing 78 degree air.  With fans, it can feel like the low 70’s and you save big bucks from not running that energy hog that sits outside your window day and night.  Ceiling fans and box fans consume less energy than the big green monster.  Which leads me to my bonus tip….. Mechanic’s Heating and Air Conditioning, LLC has great deals on new air conditioning equipment.

Bonus Tip – Call Mechanic’s Heating and Air Conditioning, LLC to service your unit(s).  We can get them running in top economical shape and if the unit is ready to be put down, we can do so humanely and cheaply.  There are several tax credit plans and energy efficient models that we get killer deals on because we buy so many and we pass that on to you so we can buy more and get more discounts.  It’s kind of a neat downward spiral in price.  But it can be to your advantage so call Mechanic’s Heating and Air Conditioning, LLC at 770-425-0000.  We cover the entire Atlanta are including Marietta, Roswell and Stone Mountain.  We service all brands like Trane, Ruud, Lennox, Bryant, Carrier and Rheem.  Don’t wait.  Call now!

In the Atlanta Air Conditioning business, we see a lot of heat pumps out there cranking out air conditioning and heating. Even though I’m an expert in Atlanta HVAC repair, I will try not to get too technical here.  First, the one fact that the heat pump exploits is the fact that there is always heat outside…even at 10 degrees Fahrenheit.  You see, the reason it is not colder outside say in Marietta than 10 degrees is the fact that there is some heat out there keeping the temperature up above absolute zero which is what outer space experiences.  (Have you ever seen the astronauts in the big suits with gloves?  They would freeze to death in seconds without it).  On the Fahrenheit scale, zero degrees is not the coldest it gets.  -459 degrees is the coldest it can possibly get.  On the Celsius scale, the coldest temperature is -273.  So, the heat pump has refrigerant that travels in copper tubes from inside the house to outside and allows the heat outside to warm up the refrigerant.  This warming process turns the refrigerant from a liquid to a gas where it travels back inside to have the inside air blown over it.  By blowing air over the copper tubes holding the gas, the heat in the gas transfers to the air through your vents and into your rooms.  The gas, without the heat, turns back into a liquid.  The heat pump will also compress the gas to aid the gas in releasing the heat.   When the summer comes and the air conditioner is needed, the system has a reversing valve that goes through the same process in reverse and thus, removes the hot air from inside the house to the outside.  At Mechanic’s Heating and Air Conditioning, we understand heat pumps whether they are manufactured by Carrier, Trane, Ruud, Rheem, Lennox or Bryant.  These principals are the same whether your unit is in Atlanta, Marietta or Roswell.  Call us at 770-425-0000 if you need help with your heating or air conditioner.

Source: http://allaboutaironline.com
Date: February 23, 2009
Author: Bryan K. Rocky
Email: bryan.rocky@jci.com

On February 17, 2009, President Obama signed the “American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 (ARRA)” into law. This bill combines spending and tax incentives designed to get the American economy moving forward by investing in infrastructure and increasing the energy efficiency of residential/commercial buildings in America.

Specifically for the HVAC business, this legislation makes a number of important changes to the existing tax incentives for homeowners who make qualified improvements on high efficiency HVAC products and equipment in their primary residences. Overall, the tax credits available have been increased up to 30% of the installed cost of those improvements, or up to a total of $1,500 for residential HVAC products installed from January 1, 2009 through December 31, 2010.

The following information has been prepared to help answer those frequently asked questions on this complicated issue of tax credits for residential HVAC equipment. Before filling for tax credits on any of the listed models, it is always recommended that homeowners/taxpayers consult with a tax professional to review the provisions of the “American Recovery and Revitalization Act of 2009” (ARRA) and application in reference to Section 25C of the Internal Revenue Code. Previously, the IRS has directed taxpayers to use Form 5695, Residential Energy Efficient Property Credit. Taxpayers should keep copies of invoices and receipts for documenting their actual expenditures, but only need to file Form 5695 with their tax returns to get the tax credits.

Frequently Asked Questions Concerning the Revised Residential HVAC Tax Credits for 2009 and 2010

What are the qualifying criteria for residential equipment to get these tax credits?

The revised criteria for qualifying residential HVAC equipment under Section 1121 of the ARRA legislation are as follows.

1. A natural gas, propane, or oil furnace rated at 95.0% AFUE or higher.
2. Any furnace equipped with an advanced main air circulating fan that uses no more than 2% of the total furnace total energy use.
3. A central air conditioner that achieves the highest efficiency tier established by the Consortium for Energy Efficiency as in effect on January 1, 2009 (which is 16 SEER or higher, 13 EER or higher rating). Previously, the criteria were 15 SEER, 12.5 EER which is no longer valid.
4. An electric air source heat pump that achieves the highest efficiency tier established by the Consortium for Energy Efficiency as in effect on January 1, 2009 (which is 15 SEER or higher, 12.5 EER or higher, 8.5 HSPF or higher rating). Previously, the criteria were 15 SEER, 13 EER, 9 HSPF as stated in the text of the legislation rather than being tied to the CEE highest efficiency tier level for electric air source heat pumps.

What is an advanced main air circulating fan?

An advanced main air circulating fan is a blower/fan used in a natural gas, propane, or oil furnace originally placed in service by the taxpayer during the taxable year, and which has an annual electricity use of no more than two percent of the total annual energy use of the furnace (as determined in the standard Department of Energy test procedures). This criteria and tax credits do not apply to air handlers with variable speed motors, as the benefit of the advanced main air circulating fan has already been included in the energy efficiency ratings of the outdoor products.

What’s the difference between a tax credit and a tax deduction?

A tax credit applies directly against the taxpayers’ liability. A tax deduction applies against a taxpayer’s income, lowering the adjusted gross income and possibly moving the taxpayer to a lower tax bracket. Tax credits have a greater benefit to a taxpayer than a tax deduction.

Can a homeowner claim $1500 in tax credits for improvements made in 2009, and then again claim tax credits for more improvements made in 2010?

No, taxpayers are eligible for a total of $1500 in tax credits for improvements made over the combined two year period.

Does the tax credit apply to the cost of the equipment or equipment plus labor?

The tax credit applies to the installed cost of the equipment that qualifies for the tax credits, which includes labor for that specific installation.

Can a homeowner use the $1500 tax credit towards a single appliance installation?

Yes, since the per appliance caps have been removed by this new legislation, a homeowner may use the entire $1500 in tax credits for installing a single qualified appliance, such as a furnace, air conditioner, heat pump, etc. up to 30% of the installed cost of that one appliance.

What happens if the 30% of the installed cost is less than the $1500 limit?

The homeowner can “bank” the remaining amount of the available tax credit towards the cost of other qualified improvements during the two year period. Any single item that the installed cost is more than $5000 will instantly reach the $1500 limit.

Do “Energy Star” Certified products meet the requirements for these tax credits?

Because there are different equipment definitions and product tiers used by the “Energy Star” program, note that most “ENERGY STAR” products do meet the criteria for these tax credits, but not all of them do. Refer to the qualifying criteria as shown on the “Energy Star” website and the criteria for the federal tax credits.

What if a taxpayer had made claims for tax credits on improvements made during 2006 or 2007 tax years?

The “lifetime caps” that placed limits on the total tax credits available to any taxpayer have been removed. Any previous claims do not count against the current $1500 tax credit limit.

Can a homeowner claim credits for improvements to a second home, such as a vacation home?

No, the tax credit program is only available for improvements made to the taxpayer’s primary residence or home, and may not be used for second or vacation homes

Can a small business that operates out of a townhouse and installs residential equipment in a commercial setting claim the credit?

No. The tax credit may only be claimed by taxpayers on their personal income taxes for improvements to their primary residence.

What other types of energy efficiency improvements qualify for the tax credits?

Homeowners may be able to qualify for the tax credits if they make qualified improvements to windows and doors including skylights, storm windows and storm doors; roofing including metal and asphalt roofs; and insulation. All of these improvements qualify, but homeowner may only claim $1500 in total for any improvements. The exception to this is for geothermal heat pump applications and installations, where there is no limit on the tax credit amount.

How do homeowners claim the tax credits and receive their money?

Before filling for tax credits on any listed models, it is always recommended that homeowners/consumers consult with a tax professional to review the provisions of the “American Recovery and Revitalization Act of 2009” (ARRA) in reference to Section 25C of the Internal Revenue Code. Previously, the IRS has directed taxpayers to use Form 5695, Residential Energy Efficient Property Credit. Taxpayers should keep copies of invoices and receipts to document their actual expenditures, but only need to file Form 5695 with their tax returns to get the tax credits.

Should a contractor promise a homeowner that they will qualify for the tax credit?

No, as each taxpayer’s situation may be different. The contractor may not know if the taxpayer has already made other improvements that qualify, or if their tax situation will change by the end of the tax year. But to be safe, the contractor can always say “by installing qualified equipment, the taxpayer may be qualified to claim of 30% of the installed costs (up to a $1,500 limit) in tax credits.” And the contractor should always advise the homeowner to refer to the applicable IRS forms and regulations.

What if a homeowner/taxpayer had already completed energy improvements under the provisions of the “Emergency Economic Stabilization Act of 2008” for 2009 that no longer qualify for tax credits under this new bill?

The “American Recovery and Revitalization Act of 2009” replaces all of the provisions of the previous tax incentives for these products. Refer to the appropriate IRS rules, regulations, and information on this topic.

What are the requirements for tax credits on package units used for residential applications and installations?

The information on the criteria for tax credits for packaged air conditioning and heating products is included in the reference material found at the end of this letter. Information for York packaged air conditioning products is available from the Commercial Product group since that product family falls under their responsibility.

What should be done with manufacturer’s tax credit certificates already published for 2009 tax credits?

Please note that there are significant changes to the qualifying criteria for high efficiency products and to other provisions related to HVAC equipment under this new legislation. Because of these changes, previous versions of tax certificates which specify qualifying residential equipment are no longer valid and should not be used at this time.

Since the ARRA legislation is retroactive for all qualifying equipment installed in 2009, updated certificates showing qualifying equipment have been prepared. Certificates can also be downloaded from the AHRI and GAMA websites indicated at the end of this document if manufacturer’s certificates are not yet available.

Additional Resources:
This document was prepared using information from a number of sources, including the following websites. Additional information may be found at:

ACEEE (American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy)

http://aceee.org/energy/national/taxkey.htm/

Air Conditioning Contractor of America (ACCA)

http://www.acca.org/press/news.php?id=215

AHRI (Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute)

http://www.ahrinet.org/Pages/ShowMeMore.aspx?src=single&lpk=741/

CEE (Consortium for Energy Efficiency)

http://www.ceehvacdirectory.org/

Energy Star

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits#s9/

GAMA (Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association)

http://www.gamanet.org/gama/inforesources.nsf/vContentEntries/Product+Directories?OpenDocument/

Heating, Air conditioning and Refrigeration Distributors International (HARDI)

http://www.hardinet.org/

Tax Incentives Assistance Project

http://www.energytaxincentives.org/general/legislative.php

Document prepared February 23, 2009. Any questions may be directed to:

Bryan K. Rocky
316-832-6431
bryan.rocky@jci.com